Circuits are generally limited to under 100 watts, that’s more due to the limitations on data cable. Meanwhile, I bought a large box of store brand LEDs two years ago and have yet to see a single one of them go out. The way tungsten lamps fail is, because the ends of the filaments are attached to metal supports, the middle is always hotter than the ends. By the way, the 2019 Prius gets 50/54 mpg. The aluminum PCB does nothing but equalize the temperature between all the LEDs. It could mean less clutter, but only for low power devices. The minimum brightness of a dimmable led is usually very dim on decent quality ones (though it won’t get as orange/red as a filament so it will look different), but an incandescent will need significantly more voltage before it does anything, so a dimmer meant for incandescent, or an unadjusted LED dimmer will have the zero point set much too high. Otherwise your light will seem too harsh, and you actually see worse despite the apparent brightness. Similar tech but different ‘needs’. As you describe many people seem to love conspiracy shit. Once the unreliable brands are done being weeded out, the low end of the curve should lift up a bit. These less powerful lights wouldn’t heat up so much, so they’d last longer. Oh wait…. This was about selling more bulbs and making more money. I’ve taken a look at some of the technical issues in LED lighting. A 2010 documentary, “The Light Bulb Conspiracy,” explores the history of the cartel along with some more recent instances of planned obsolescence. Fortunately, these are mostly limited to the very cheapest designs assembled from dirt cheap through-hole leds, etc. Its a no brainer that they cost less in usage/consumption for the end user, but seems to be a bit of a throw-away, and part for part (environmentally) compared to a tungsten filament they must a have much larger carbon footprint. And the list goes on. Is it because our dollar is based on Oil ? Some are … “Different bulb and electricity prices would skew the optimal lifetime, but it seems pretty reasonable that the mandated 1000 hr lifetime is a consumer protection regulation rather than an industry conspiracy to rip off consumers.”, interesting since the first edition of IEC 60064 was first put into place in 1954, about 20 or so years after the conspiracy claims that the manufacturers got together. Problem solved and all that for the price of one resistor and some glue. (majority non-recyclable) Usually the LED flickers and only dims down to 80% of full brightness — unacceptable for this dimmer freak. Probably not the best engineered or built devices. Looking at the pictures and their statements it is clear that this company is an other ripp off as there are so many of them , companies as this are destroying the work of many who are in the led field and doing a pretty good job with very decent products. The max lumen output on the market is theirs ? I’ve seen this failure mode in pth and smd discrete leds which flicker as you’ve described due to thermal expansion and contraction of the bond wires attaching the led die leading to an intermittent connection. They persist because people are always willing to try the cheaper options, in case they actually do work. It’s totally possible you could salvage a few more years out of a bulb, but it’s also possible this isn’t really worth it, as the author points out. Color temperatures could shift around as well. These products replace the standard 60w bulbs used so commonly in homes and offices, and are advertised as lasting more than twenty years under normal usage conditions. Do you think they’d be using aluminum PCBs if FR4 would do the job? What a saving on cables, labor and so on.. Not even a mention of the “filament” style LEDs without any circuitry whatsoever? That’s true of mature products, but the LED ‘bulb replacement’ market isn’t quite there yet. Because I’m allowing for high-power configurations—these are the main room lights. I have two Philips flood lamps in my hallway with a dimmer specified on the box and I have full dimming capability down to a barely visible glow to full brightness. They may be gone in the newest models, but I’ve had a number of fans that wouldn’t run CFLs because of them. The age of A19 and similar bulb sockets will have to end in order to realize the full potential of LED lighting. Watch out when using an LED (or other clear case diode) as a varicap. I may wind up replacing these with more and smaller LED bulbs. But what are those heat sinks coupled to? Funny how my directly heated triodes and rectifiers from the 1920s have filaments that continue to be reliable and light up today. That said, is it all actually *fully* recycled? Lux-meter shows higher brightness for same wattage – consumer is happy and thinks they got more for the money. Each once produces the equivalent of a 60w incandescent. In general, you would choose based on where they’re being used. This makes sense because of the heat issues from the high wattage/brightness. and it was reported in the trade press. Brighter LED bulbs with a greater lumen power are particularly prone to this problem. Many people who don’t know any better will buy the bulb that’s brightest and most efficient (Biggest numbers on the box). POE++ Make the switch PSUs more efficient. For an example of top-notch LED lighting, look no further than the 9w LED light bulb. Phoebus continued to exert influence on the market until World War II ended its reign. It’s counterintuitive that this would shorten the lives of bulbs. Featuring LED floodlight bulbs, LED track light bulbs and globe LED bulbs. Even with recessed/directional bulbs, a common trick is to narrow the beam further by 5 degrees to maintain luminance directly under the lamp, reducing it at the edges. Ambient light makes the room bright. 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